Milan menswear shows: D&G and Gucci invoke decades past

Isaac Hindin Miller reports from Europe's style capital on the latest in summer menswear fashions.

Dolce & Gabbana

Only one thing was more ripped than the denim at D&G today, and it was the boys on display. In their finale walk, all were topless and so extraordinarily pumped that it wasn't a far stretch to imagine them doing a few quick sets of press-ups before they exited backstage.

Invitations came in the form of vintage print silk scarves like the ones designed by Hermes and Gucci that vintage hunters scour for at flea markets.

Those scarf prints formed the basis for the entire collection - featuring on everything from a pair of shorts to a cropped blazer, a shirt to drop-crotch pants. Mixed with the aforementioned shredded denim jeans and shirts, the offering felt very ironically 90s - never so evident than in a silk bomber that will no doubt be a hipster staple come summer.

With a banging soundtrack that included Prince and James Brown, D&G might just win the award for the most entertaining show of the week.

Gucci

Over at Gucci, Frida Giannini took a road well travelled for the brand - the 70s - this time, young Londoners - "aristocrats, dandies, singers, noblemen and rock stars," declared the show notes. A gentlemen's club dressed by Savile Row tailors.

Surprisingly, it manifested itself in a less formal collection than previous seasons - fewer suits than separates, plenty of open collar shirts, and blazers panelled in beige and light teal that seemed to take cues from windbreakers.

Those sporty elements were scattered throughout - anoraks, red trims on pant hems and easy rubber-soled leather shoes, but the emphasis was on easy movement - pleated pants with slouchy knits and unbuttoned cardigans.

The gentlemen's club looked like a good time - never more so than in the finale evening section. It's a winning formula: cue glitter jackets, cue the party.

Z Zegna

Z Zegna is a constant highlight of the Milan menswear week and today's outing proved particularly significant - as Alessandro Sartori's final collection at the brand, all eyes were on the departing Italian to see which way he'd play it.

Held in the outdoor courtyard of the Zegna headquarters, a white marquee had been constructed, filled with clean light and crisp air - the perfect backdrop to what was easily the best collection of the week.

Volume, colour and proportion were at play: exaggerated, flowing trench coats with trim trousers; body hugging, ultra-cropped jackets with billowing pants, perfectly cut belted blazers, slouchy jersey DBs; Grecian sky blue, white, dijonnaise yellow, bark brown. This was a collection for the record books - one last blast before the final whistle is blown.

Through casual, business, travelling salesman and evening, Sartori proved his prowess with cut, cloth, colour and cohesion, painting with clothing, if such a thing is possible.

When it was all said and done, the applause lasted long after he'd departed the catwalk.

He'll be sorely missed.