Zanotti epitome of hip

THERE is a palpable sense of excitement and anticipation as guests made their way to the Giuseppe Zanotti showroom to view the designer’s Autumn/Winter collection during the Milan Fashion Week earlier this year.

It’s easy to be captivated as Zanotti’s footwear and accessories collection embody an intensity and eclecticism that is so lush and magnetic.

There are gem-encrusted flats, super-high heels made from the most gorgeous materials, booties with metallic stiletto heels, sneakers that are both luxurious and playful.

Then, there is the riot of psychedelic colours – from neon blues to mustard yellows.

It’s a very visual collection, one that revives the graphic and piquant world of the late 70s to the early 80s.

Zanotti grew up in San Mauro Pascoli, an Italian town with a long tradition in shoemaking. He began as a design apprentice before making his high fashion debut at Christian Dior. He has worked with designers such as Roberto Cavalli, Missoni and Vera Wang.

In 1994, Zanotti set up his own line; his shoes and assessories are worn by Hollywood A-listers.

The challenge for Zanotti is always to create something new and different every season, and he is always thinking of translating his ideas and inspirations in fresh ways – such as his animal print sandal.

“This shoe was born from a search for a harmonious but original combination of different hides,” explains Zanotti in an interview. “I wanted a new way of interpreting the animal theme, but I had trouble finding a single print to embody my ideas.”

And so the idea of mixing four different hides was born.

Zanotti’s experimentation in combining different materials in his shoes has resulted in some highly stylised designs – there are super high heels made of metal and wrapped in leather, with suede and silk.

There are black python bags fastened by belts and biker buckles for dramatic contrast, and warrior-inspired jewellery with rhinestones.

It is this spirit of curiosity and innovation that drive Zanotti’s creative energy.

His Autumn/Winter collection actually began with a quest to uncover “what is missing in the range of feminine shoes which already exist in any closet”.

He tackled this challenge “with an adventurous and literary approach”.

“It’s a collection inspired by personalities such as Raymond Chandler, Léo Malet, Ed McBain, Alfred Hitchcock and Fritz Lang, visualised by designer Raymond Loewy in exasperated hypothetical (set from the 50s to the 90s), on the background of imaginary Studebaker and Buicks (vintage vehicles) with exaggerated colours, skytrains, Coca-Cola bottles and openwork techno structures.”

He is also inspired by his travels, urban spaces, art and music.

“I am listening to Nicki Minaj. I like how she is exploding with energy,” says Zanotti who is brimming with ideas.

He says he could come up with hundreds more designs. He is constantly tweaking his designs, and re-looking at them.

His innovations are also not just in terms of designs, but also in the technology of making shoes more comfortable and stable. He looks at technical solutions to make his heels stable and light, so that women can “go from shopping in them, send their children to school or go clubbing with friends in them.”

“Every design has a story. There are different designs within the collection and it is easy for women to pick from my collection. Designers today are not like in the 80s and 90s when they dictate what women want.

“The women today have strong personalities, and they decide for themselves what they want,” says the designer whose designs are favoured by Hollywood’s elite stars such as Lady Gaga, Beyonce and Rihanna.

Zanotti says a good pair of shoes is not only about the aesthetics, but also how it makes the wearer feels.